Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2023 edition was its biggest since before the pandemic, pulling in international buyers, press and influencers with a mix of established designers and newer names that are pushing the boundaries of Scandi style. Sustainability remained high on the agenda, as the deadline for participating brands to meet the event’s zero-waste and other requirements looms.
There were 35 physical shows this season, up from 21 for AW22. The number of visitors on the CPHFW guest programme, which ran from 8-12 August, rose 25 per cent on the previous season, organisers said. Some of Scandinavia’s biggest homegrown brands returned to the runway for the first time since the pandemic. Norwegian label Holzweiler staged a 10-year anniversary show in an opulent hall opposite Tivoli Gardens on 17 August, a few days after announcing major investment from Sequoia Capital China. Saks Potts presented its new brand vision in a sunny park. Leading label Ganni closed the week with a colourful, 1990-themed outdoor show on the Copenhagen harbour, where models rode BMX bikes. They mixed on the schedule with emerging names such as P.L.N. and Latimmier, both of whom are supported by CPHFW’s New Talent scheme.
With the big brands came the big influencers. American mega influencer Emma Chamberlain; Microsoft scion Phoebe Gates; and British influencers Mia Regan and Jordan Grant were among the guests at Ganni; rapper A$AP Nast cheered on model friend Mona Tougaard as she walked for Holzweiler and Ganni. And British model Alva Claire walked the runway to show her collaboration with Copenhagen/Paris based label Opera Sport, for the brand’s first-ever runway show.
Ida Petersson, buying director at Browns, told Vogue Business she welcomed the return of bigger names alongside some of the emerging labels that “shape the energy” of fashion weeks. “There's a need [for fashion week organisers] to nurture legacy partners to ensure they stay engaged with their original target audience. CPHFW really nailed this.”
A new Scandi aesthetic
CPHFW has long been synonymous with bright, colourful and feminine fashion, spurred by labels such as Ganni, Cecilie Bahnsen and Stine Goya. But Vogue noted a vibe shift ahead of this season — and the city’s emerging talents delivered, with collections that questioned gender stereotypes and what “Scandi” fashion means today.
P.L.N. staged a subversive, dark show, soundtracked by Manchester rapper Blackhaine, who screamed “this country’s bleeding for us”, as models walked the runway in painted black canvas, leather and distressed, torn fabrics. It felt more like a show you’d see in London or Paris, which makes sense: designer Peter Lundvald Nielsen is a Balenciaga alumnus.
Also subverting the traditional understanding of Scandi-style was Finnish designer Latimmier, who presented his genderless collection in a crossfit gym. He flexed his muscles and roared while taking his show bow (in stark contrast to Pitti in June, when he narrated his presentation in drag). Meanwhile, Division, one of Copenhagen’s fastest growing young labels, staged a high impact coed show in a woodland, taking its streetwear-inspired, upcycled collection to a new level with the introduction of new styles and categories, from tailoring to bags.
Sustainable innovation
CPHFW CEO Cecilie Thorsmark reminded visitors in her opening remarks that designers will be required to meet the event’s sustainability goals in order to join the schedule from AW23 onwards. Launched in 2020, these include creating zero-waste shows and events; and producing collections that are at least 50 per cent certified as made of preferred materials or new generation sustainable materials, upcycled, recycled or made of deadstock. The event also announced that from next year, fur will be banned for all participating designers. The SS23 season showcased several new sustainability innovations that are helping brands to get there.
During a panel discussion hosted by Vogue Business and Zalando on Wednesday, Ganni CEO Andrea Baldo outlined its sustainability game plan. He pointed out that 87 per cent of styles in the SS23 collection are classed by Ganni as “responsible”, meaning at least 50 per of the composition is certified recycled, lower-impact, or organic. The brand is committed to making this 100 per cent in the future. It has also partnered with recycled fibre company Infinna and created shoes made of Vegea, a material made of leftover grape skins from wine production.
Swedish talent Jade Cropper presented her second collection this season, of which 80 per cent was made using Renewcell’s recycled fibre textile Circulose — the first time the textile has been used on the runway. At a post-show dinner, Renewcell CEO Patrik Lundström said he hoped this would show global fashion brands the possibilities of using Circulose in commercial collections.
Elsewhere, Division partnered with recycled fibre supplier Pizzaro to scale up its circular sourcing (as it expands internationally, it requires more deadstock); and London/Reykjavik based outerwear brand Ranra won the Zalando sustainability award for natural hand dyeing techniques and R&D in new manufacturing styles, announced on Thursday.
The SS23 edition of CPHFW demonstrated the possibilities of a more sustainable fashion week, shone the spotlight on new talents and new perspectives, and showed off its most prominent exports. As visitor numbers climb back to pre-pandemic levels, Copenhagen’s impact is being felt across the industry.
“We knew it was going to be a big season because of the amount of shows and the fact that they're all physical again, of course,” says Thorsmark. “But also, it was a stronger lineup than ever this time. By embracing young talent, I think it's also embracing a diverse youth culture and a diverse society.”Read more at:formal dresses uk | high low prom dresses